Spitz Gives Little Tokyo Unexpected Flair

By David Tepper

Nestled in the bustling neighborhood of Little Tokyo between countless ramen, tea and sushi eateries is Spitz, a restaurant that provides an unsuspecting alternative to the mostly Japanese options in the area.

Spitz is “Mediterranean street food” that specializes in the döner kebab style, which is mostly found in Germany and Turkey. Döner is basically a giant cone of ground meat rotated around a heated surface and shaved from off the sides. It is usually then served in some form of a flat bread sandwich.

“Wraps are our main thing that we are known for,” explained server Scott Kulicke. “The Street Cart Döner in particular is the best seller and a classic.”

Garlic aioli, fried lavash chips, romaine, cabbage, tomato, onion, green pepper, cucumber and tzatziki all go into the Street Cart Döner. That and just about every sandwich at Spitz comes loaded with toppings that would likely be found at Greek and Turkish restaurants, along with choices of chicken, beef or lamb.

Spitz strives to take the creativity factor up to the highest level possible. Innovations of the Mediterranean-American fusion style that might not be found back in Europe help Spitz’s kitchen standout. The Döquitos is the Mediterranean answer to taquitos. People “go gonzo” over the deep-fried pita strips that are served with humus, according to Kulicke.

Affordable prices are another selling point for Spitz. Although this type of food is not very common in America, the most expensive items are the $12 Döner Salad and Döner Basket when meat is added.

The idea of opening a Mediterranean street food spot came from a pair of Occidental College graduates after one of the founders studied abroad. The first location opened near Occidental’s campus in Eagle Rock. Eight years ago, the Little Tokyo restaurant became the second Spitz with other locations eventually opening in Los Feliz, Studio City and Salt Lake City, Utah.

Kulicke feels that Spitz might not be the most popular place in the neighborhood, but it has found a niche in the community.

“So to locals we are a bit of a fixture, but I wouldn't say were a cornerstone,” Kulicke said. “People who live around here know about our food and like to eat here. We’re the only Spitz with a full bar, so it’s a very good hangout.”

Unlike the food, Spitz takes a more domestic approach to beers. There are four craft beers on tap, all of which are brewed in Southern California. That list includes Smog City Little Bo Pils, Craftsman Heavenly Hefe, Pizza Port Chronic Amber Ale and Eagle Rock Populist IPA. The bar stays away from most mainstream beers to keep a higher standard for drinks.

“A part of it is just maintaining a brand quality so that we are a bit more upscale,” said Kulicke. “It starts as street food, but we've taken it up a notch, so we don't want to offer run-of-the-mill beer.”

Spitz might be considered fast food from the quick to cook eating options and low prices; however, it’s the atmosphere and décor that really sets it apart from the order at the counter crowd. One step inside Spitz takes patrons out of the Little Tokyo they might have become accustomed to with its colorful and graffiti tagged walls. Bulky steel lanterns, pipes and sculptures that descend from the ceiling help to give off a hipster-like vibe. Even the bathroom is plastered with funky throwback record covers.

“That's sort of a part of the thing, making sure people enjoy themselves while they're here and not just give them their food and walk about the door,” Kulicke noted. “Give them a bit of an experience.”

It’s that unique feeling that really settles with both repeat and first time customers.

“After moving here from the Midwest it was the type of cool and artsy place I imagined that would be in L.A.,” said Spitz newcomer Nancy Harvey. “I definitely got to go back for more.”

Here is Spitz's location in Little Tokyo: